Advice for new HeroClix Modders

[TheTemplar]

Any tips you veteran (no pun intended... well.. maybe a little) Clix modders out there can give to someone starting up? I'm trying to build up my figure base via the marvel that is EBay so that I've got lots and lots of body parts to choose from to make cool custom minis for my Champions players, and a few of my favorite recurring villains.

 

As far as I can gather, aside from Clix, I need some Xacto knives, glue (any particular kind?) Acrylic paints (again, any particular kind? Do you primer your figs before you paint them? Acetone the existing paint off?) Any brush recommendations? Those of you who putty alot, any particular kind I should look for?

 

Thanks for the tips!

[Blue]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

There's a very good article on this sort of thing in a previous "Digital Hero" issue. I think it may have been a "free" article, and I'm willing to bet the author will be along momentarily to post he URL

 

Other folks are far better at this than I am. But here's what I use anyway:

 

Games Workshop's "Super Glue" (I actually forget what it's called, but it's like most conventional superglues)

 

Reaper Miniatures paints, in the little squeeze bottles.

 

Acetone if the paint is pretty thick, but I typically don't bother stripping paint on most figures.

 

Primer, yes. I use any white primer, or games workshop's black primer (I typically can't find Black Primer in the local hardware store).

 

Brushes: No recommendations. I don't remember the names of the manufacturers, and I go through them quickly, since I'm very hard on them.

 

There's a green putty used for filling in cracks on plastic models. Wish I could remember the name of it (dang!). It's got he consistency of tooth paste and it dries quickly and can be sanded. And then there's "Green Stuff", aka Kneadatite, which is much thicker, like clay; It comes on a rolled up ribbon that's yellow and blue; You cut a bit off, knead the two colors together, and it will start to harden. Kneadtite is what figure designers sculpt from to make orignal figures, before casting. I'm awful as sculpting it turns out, but that left me a ribbon of Kneadtite I use sometimes for securing figures to bases, etc. The other green modeling putty is easier to use, but doesn't harden to plasti consistency, like kneadtite does.

[teh bunneh]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

Thanks, Blue. Yep, the article is in the Free section. Check http://www.herogames.com/digitalHero/Samples/dh14miniatures.htm -- or better yet, pick up the issue (#14). It comes with full-color photos and everything!

 

As far as I can gather, aside from Clix, I need some Xacto knives, glue (any particular kind?) Acrylic paints (again, any particular kind? Do you primer your figs before you paint them? Acetone the existing paint off?) Any brush recommendations? Those of you who putty alot, any particular kind I should look for?

 

Xacto knives are a must (the ones where you can switch out the blades are cherry).

 

Regular superglue works just fine. If you're going to be doing a lot of modding, get some "gap-filling cyanoacryllate." It goes by a variety of brand names like Zap-a-Gap.

 

Paints. Blue mentioned Reaper's Master series, and they are really nice paints. I've got a ton of 'em. Vallejo makes good mini paints as well. But they are kinda pricey. If you're on a budget, go to your local craft store and look for craft paints (like Apple Barrel or Americana). They are inexpensive and come in a lot of different colors -- though admittedly they aren't as good as the pro paints.

 

I always clean the existing paint off. Drop the fig in a small glass (never plastic, paper, or styrofoam!), pour some acetone over it, and swirl it around for 30 seconds. NEVER MORE THAN THIRTY SECONDS! Then use an old toothbrush to scrub the rest of the paint off. You'll never get all the paint off, but if you do it right you'll get about 90% of it.

 

Always use primer. White, black, or gray, depending on your prefs. For beginning painters, I recommend white. Your colors will come out crisper.

 

If you're really, really serious about painting, natural kolinsky sable brushes in a variety of sizes, ranging from 0 down to 10/0. If you're just picking up the hobby for fun, any brush (synthetic or natural hair) will do -- but make sure you pick up a size 0, a 3/0, and a 5/0.

 

Kneadatite is the type of putty the sculpters use, and it works really well. But if you're doing really simple mods, you can get away with Carpenter's epoxy putty for most stuff. It's cheap and easy to work with (and you can get it at the hardware store).

[hooligan x]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

I use any super glue gel.

 

I only strip the paint if the clix paint is so gloppy it obscures the details or glossy (because the paint wont stick to gloss).

 

I never prime plastic, only metal. Never had to.

 

I use Citadel paint because it's easy to find and mixes well.

 

I have one of those plastic pill things that have several compartments that snap shut

to mix and store custom colors.

 

I use an old Crystal Lite container for rinse water.

 

I prefer Reaper's putty to GW's.

 

I buy brushes at the art store or the craft shop, never buy Citadel brushes.

 

I am typing withoput contats because of conjunctivitis.

 

Buy the pure acetone nail polish remover from a dollar store instead of buying acetone at a craft or art store.

 

Keep your tooth brush wet when brushinf away the paint.

before cutting up the clix, microwave a mug of water for 60-90 seconds. Drop the clix in water just below boiling for a few seconds and it will cut easily. You can also reposition limbs when the clix is just out of the hotbath. when it cools the limbs will stay put.

 

Citadel sells slot bases in bags of 64. The fit syandard hexes perfectly.

 

When your xacto slips and cuts you, use the superglu to stop the bleeding. it will harden into a protective shell and wont even hurt.

 

I still have your super commie mod if you want it

[TheTemplar]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

Wow! Awesome tips, thanks all. Repped, Repped, and Repped.

 

HooliganX - I just PM'ed you my address. Thanks!

[Lethosos]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

...Acetone? Oy. At least I have it here at work; that stuff's just plain nasty on plastic.

 

Would most of the advice work of the D&D Minatures line? I've picked up a Weretiger that would suit Byakko pretty well--just needs some mods to fit the idea, and a one-hex base. That thing's rated as a Large critter, oy...

[Blue]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

Haven't tried to mod a plastic D&D mini yet, though I've been looking through them for such a purpose.

 

Not sure about stripping those. Would certainly be an interesting experiment. Try it on one you won't mind losing.

[garou]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

You can also use Pine-Sol to strip plastic minis. I haven't tried it on the flubber that they use for Heroclix or D&D minis, but I have used it on other plastics without ill effect. Plus, it's handy for cleaning up your work area afterwards.

 

I also heartily recommend picking up a container of Extender. You can find it among all the craft paints at your local Megastore or craft store. Basically, an extender makes the paint flow more smoothly, blend better, and mix better. It does take a little longer to dry as well, but this is an advantage, especially during the hot, dry summer months.

[hooligan x]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

Acetone works fine on Clix, but you can't just drop them in and let them soak. They should be swirlled around for 15-30 seconds then rescued. Use an old toothbrush (or a new one if you're feeling extravagant) and lightly brush the paint away. Mke sure you keep the brush wet by rinsing it in a separate glass of acetone. A dry brush will score the figure.

 

D&D and Star Wars minis are made of softer stuff than the Wizkids product. I don't know how they'd take it.

[Blue]

Part Sought

 

Rather than start a new thread for this question, I'll just post it here:

 

Is anyone aware of a Clix figure that wears a cowboy hat?

I'm trying to make one of my player's PCs, and need a cowboy hat to complete it.

 

Doesn't look like they've made a fig for Jonnah Hex or The Original Ghost Rider (the one that rode a horse).

 

Thanks.

[hooligan x]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

http://www.wizkidsgames.com/images/figures/Rotating/HMCT/HMCT_067_rot01.jpg

 

Clobberin' Time Logan. You'll need some carefull X-actoin' but I've used it for La Pistolera and it worked well.

 

They're out of print, but you can pick it up cheap here: http://popularcollections.com/mhcct67.html

[Guest bblackmoor]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

Acetone the existing paint off?

 

I can't help with your other questions, but this one I have lots of experience with: no, don't bother trying to take the paint off. I have tried everything -- everything -- from alcohol to acetone to airbrush cleaner to Pine Sol to xylene to god knows what else, with anything from tooth brushes to bottle brushes to fingernail brushes, from 30 seconds to 30 hours, and anything that will even soften the paint will turn the plastic figure to rubber -- or to mush. Don't even waste your time (or your Clix).

[Blue]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

http://www.wizkidsgames.com/images/figures/Rotating/HMCT/HMCT_067_rot01.jpg

 

Clobberin' Time Logan. You'll need some carefull X-actoin' but I've used it for La Pistolera and it worked well.

 

They're out of print, but you can pick it up cheap here: http://popularcollections.com/mhcct67.html

Thanks much! I feel kinda silly ordering 1 fig from a website, so I'll have to shop around a bit there.

[Blue]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

I can't help with your other questions' date=' but this one I have lots of experience with: [b']no[/b], don't bother trying to take the paint off. I have tried everything -- everything -- from alcohol to acetone to airbrush cleaner to Pine Sol to xylene to god knows what else, with anything from tooth brushes to bottle brushes to fingernail brushes, from 30 seconds to 30 hours, and anything that will even soften the paint will turn the plastic figure to rubber -- or to mush. Don't even waste your time (or your Clix).

The paint stripping thing has been problem for me too. In fact I have one I finished tonight for an NPC that looks good except for the places where the paint refused to come off. Some of it stripped, the rest stayed and made it "lumpy". Now I'm good enough at making the characters lumpy without having the unstripped paint helping me out

 

If I can find the character sheet I might post it in the other thread with a pic.

[TheTemplar]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

Thanks, BBlackmoor.

 

Oh, and Blue - if you haven't checked already, I'd HIGHLY recommend scoping EBay for Heroclix (just use Heroclix as your search keyword... you'll get about 4500 hits. )

 

I've increased my collection exponentially for a fraction of the cost of buying booster packs in the store. I'm pretty sure I saw quite a few CT Logans floating around the other day, too. If you don't want to just order 1 non-unique clix, you might be able to find him there in a REV set (which is nice, in case you need extra hats) or as part of a larger lot. The average going price per fig if you make a medium-large lot purchase usually ends up hovering right around $.50 per fig.. as opposed to $2.00 per fig in store.

[Guest bblackmoor]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

Thanks' date=' BBlackmoor. [/quote']

 

Well, I'm not sure how much help that was, but you're welcome.

[Lethosos]

Re: Advice for new HeroClix Modders

 

Hrmm, should try that for Draconian MageWars figures that I can defintly use to actually start on my Scott 'Lethosos' Pyros figure.

 

And while I was ready to sacrifice this Spellstiched Hobgoblin Zombie to acetone... I think I'll accept and not attempt it.