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Ragitsu

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Everything posted by Ragitsu

  1. Re: Ctrl+V "Captain! Captain! Come quick!" The voice of the one legged runt, Korik, broke through Roth's thoughts. Roth slammed his fist down on his heavy wooden map table and stormed out of the cabin bent on tearing the other leg from the pigglet's body. When Korik saw the expression upon Roth's face he back-peddled quickly. Unfortunately he was not able to move quite quick enough and really started to sweat when Roth grabbed hold of him by the throat. He could see the murderous intent in his captain's eyes. That was until Roth noticed the small riot on his deck. he promptly dropped Korik and swaggered over to the writhing crowd of men.
  2. Re: Ctrl+V 39116&commit=Search
  3. Re: Ctrl+V Some guys have all the luck Some guys have all the pain Some guys get all the breaks Some guys do nothing but complain
  4. Re: Ctrl+V Supremo Burrito.
  5. Re: Ctrl+V Hitler was trying to save his great country and make it better he was trying to save his race and his history that is the Nordic gods so if you think that one mans love is a f***et up think then you should be shot. to be open mined is not to be gay being open mined is to be knowing to every think to know what is right and to know what is wrong. its up to you if you love your race or not. i want my kids to look like an Aryan
  6. Re: Ctrl+V Of course, such a revelation did not quell her determination to be accompanied by a constant buzz as long as she felt the need to remain here. Which was basically until the prudes felt a need to cut her off or until she felt her social obligation had been met. Though she suspected none would dare go as far as to openly cut her off. It might show some sign of intolerance towards one of their very wealthy, and very absent, benefactors. As it was, she didn't show any sign of being intoxicated.
  7. Re: Ctrl+V http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CIqxNbhZA1E
  8. Re: Ctrl+V Joanna Noëlle Blagden Levesque
  9. Re: Ctrl+V Silent Hill Collection
  10. Re: Cybernetics and Bioengineering: what are YOUR limits? That's still waaay too close for comfort.
  11. Re: Rogues...and Soldiers...and Assassins...and...Gallery (Dark Champions Art) High skill negates penalties, I guess. Rule of Cool and all that. Edit: i'll be back to scouring for pictures in the near future. However...anyone can contribute!
  12. Re: Ctrl+V 1. He had a job defending his country 2. When he gets blood on the little girl, he becomes frantic to protect her from her own fears that she's been hurt 3. Punching the driver who is insulting the old lady (defending the vulnerable and elderly) 4. Desperate to have a meaningful role in the lives of his wife and daughter (since he's a man, this pretty much resolves to defending them from the world) 5. Killing the Nazi - not necessary, but by doing it he defends Jews, black people and women from the Nazi's hatred 6. When the thugs accost him early on, we find he's got the baseball bat concealed behind his briefcase; if it was in plain view, he wouldn't have been able to use it, so he was obviously thinking of self-defence even when he sat down to read the newspaper!
  13. Re: Ctrl+V MANY a man has suffered untold privations, and many more have lost their lives, while surrounded with food and all the necessities of life, merely through ignorance of the woods and wild life, or through inability to wrest a livelihood from nature. There are few places in the north where a man can not manage to exist for months when deprived of every aid of civilization, provided he is skilled in woodcraft, possesses self reliance and determines not to be beaten. Of course no one goes into the woods or to camp expecting to be stranded without food, garments or the ordinary necessities of life, but an upset canoe, a fire, or any one of a dozen other accidents, may leave a camper in such a plight and for that reason one should ever be prepared for any eventuality. Not only should you know how to find your way, how to signal and follow a trail, how to build a fire without matches and how to make a good camp, but in addition, you should be capable of getting a living from the woods and streams; you should know how to trap and fish, how to tan skins and how to make rude but warm and serviceable garments from the hides of the creatures you kill. A man or boy who is really skilled in woodcraft should be able to go into the wilderness with nothing but the garments he wears, a knife and his brains and yet live safely, even in comparative comfort, for at least a year. Several men and a few women have done more than this and have entered the forest naked and without a single tool, implement or appliance of any sort and yet have lived for months and have come forth to civilization, well, strong, clad in warm garments and armed with effective weapons. Few men are proficient enough to accomplish such feats, however, and seldom will it be necessary under ordinary conditions; but the more you can rely upon yourself and the more capable you are of winning a livelihood from the woods the more you will enjoy your camping experiences and the less will be the chances of any serious casualty occurring. Even if you are not obliged to use the skins of animals for garments or footwear they may often be used to good advantage when camping out and every camper should learn how to tan hides and skins and how to make moccasins. Of course, if you merely wish to preserve the skins of any creatures you catch or kill, it is only necessary to skin the animals and dry the hides in the shade, for they can be sent to a tannery to be tanned and made into rugs, etc., when you return to the city. But it is much more satisfactory to tan your own skins, and by so doing you will have added to your knowledge of woodcraft, for woodcraft in its broadest sense should always include the ability to wrest a livelihood, and make oneself comfortable, in the woods. For ordinary use the easiest and simplest way to skin any animal is to cut a straight line down the under side from chin to tail, with connecting incisions extending from this line to the sole of each of the four feet, and then peel off the skin. If the hide is intended for a rug or a trophy the feet and head should be carefully skinned and the claws and lips left on the hide. The skull should then be separated from the neck, carefully cleaned and scraped and dried so that, later on, it may be used in preparing the hide with mounted head. The skin should then be stretched smoothly on a door, board or wall, with the skin side out, — or it may be stretched on a frame of poles lashed together, — and should be rubbed with a mixture of salt and alum, after which it should be dried in the shade. If the skins are valuable and are to be sold or used as furs they should be "cased.'' In other words, one incision should be made from the sole of one hind foot down the inside of the leg, and across the abdomen and up the other hind leg to the foot. The body should then be removed through this cut, turning the skin inside out like a glove, and the skin should be slipped (still inside out) over a board or shingle whittled down to the proper size to fit the skin snugly and of somewhat tapered, oblong form. After the hide is stretched on the board it should be hung in the shade to dry without anything being rubbed upon it. On the other hand, if you expect to tan your skins and wish them soft and pliable you should be prepared to use plenty of time and elbow grease, for the secret of tanning a skin soft is to roll, rub, beat, work and scrape it while drying until thoroughly soft and pliable. There are many different ways of tanning skins and every tanner has his own favorite, — and often secret, — methods and liquors, but a skin may be tanned by merely rubbing with brains, grease or butter and working and rubbing until soft. This is a favorite Indian method which is followed by smoking, but it is far easier to use chemicals of some sort. The old fashioned alum, salt and salt-peter solution; the improved liquor of salt, alum and sulphuric acid and the various extracts of oak, sumac, mangrove, etc., are all good; but they all require care and time and a bulky supply of chemicals or liquor. Quite recently I accidentally discovered an entirely new and far better process. This consists of simply soaking the raw, freshly removed skin in a 10% to 15% solution of formalin. This will thoroughly tan a small deer skin in twelve hours and all fat, grease, bits of flesh, etc., may easily be removed after soaking. As soon as the skin turns white and leathery, rinse and wash it thoroughly in fresh water; let it drain; scrape and pull off the bits of meat and grease; work the skin dry by stretching first one way and then another by rolling and beating, and you will have a beautifully soft, kid-like piece of leather. If you do not wish to spend the time and labor to work the hide dry you can let it dry flat and will have no difficulty in making it flexible by working it and pounding it afterwards. Even old dried skins may be tanned to perfection in this way if first softened by soaking in water. Moreover, skins tanned in this way are quite free from attacks by moths and other pests; they never become stiff or hard from wetting, and the method is equally good for hides with the hair on or with the hair removed. As a small bottle of full strength formalin will make enough solution to tan a large number of good sized skins, one may always go prepared to tan any hides obtained. If you should wish to tan skins without the hair on you must first remove the hair by soaking the fresh skins in a solution of wood ashes and water, or by burying them in mud for a few hours. As soon as the hair starts to come away, rinse the skins in fresh water, lay them over a log or rounded beam and with a smooth-edged piece of hardwood, or the back of a large knife, scrape off all the hair. Then wash and tan as described. Of course many skins obtained by hunting or trapping are useless for garments or footwear, but there are many others which make excellent leggings, pouches, belts and moccasins. Deer and woodchuck, all the carnivorous animals, and squirrels, have tough skins which make strong leather, but only the larger species furnish enough leather to make moccasins or garments of any sort, unless a number of skins are sewed together. If you ever find yourself in such a predicament that it is necessary to fashion skin garments you will have to use your own ingenuity and get along as best you may, for it is impossible to describe the method of making clothing from skins in a volume of this size. On the other hand, it is a very different matter to make moccasins and as these are the easiest and most useful of footgear for the woods I advise every camper to practice until proficient in the art of making moccasins for himself. It's far cheaper and more satisfactory than buying them, even if you have to purchase the leather or buckskin, and are not fortunate enough to have hides obtained and tanned by your own hands. Among the Indians, every tribe had its own distinctive form of moccasin, but many of these were so similar that they were scarcely more than variations of a common type. To describe them all would require a treatise, but there are three distinct types which are all good and are easily made and each of which is best adapted to certain localities and purposes. For convenience these may be called the Algonquin Moccasin, the Sioux Moccasin and the Seminole Moccasin, for the three forms were distinctive of these tribes, although other tribes used moccasins of very similar appearance and construction. As these three nations lived in widely separated parts of the country, and under very different conditions, the three types of moccasins offer a choice of footgear suited to almost any portion of the United States and to almost any purpose, for you may be sure the Red man, through countless ages of primitive life and experience, has evolved the moccasin best adapted to his surroundings and purposes. Thus the Algonquin moccasin is soft and flexible and is high cut and is specially adapted to use in the woods and in canoes, for trailing and stalking game and, if well made, is almost waterproof except by long immersion and is warm in winter or cool in summer, depending upon whether it is made of thin or thick hide, or of hide with or without hair left on it. The Sioux moccasin, on the other hand, is low cut with a stout hard sole and is just the sort of footgear one would expect to find among a race inhabiting the plains and mountains of the west, where sharp pebbles, sand and rough rocks necessitate a protection for the soles of the wearer's feet, but where silent stalking in forests, the use of canoes and the necessity of waterproof moccasins are unknown. Very different from either of the above are the moccasins of the Seminoles, a tribe whose hunting grounds and homes were the deep swamps and everglades of Florida ; a tribe whose journeys were nearly all made by dug-out canoes and where cold winters were unknown. To make moccasins which would remain dry after continual soaking in the Florida swamps was impossible; the only requisite was protection for the feet. Warmth was unnecessary, and, as a result, the Seminoles evolved moccasins of thin, soft leather; high cut and close fitting as a glove; in effect, an extra thickness of skin to guard against thorns, sawgrass, insect and snake bites; but not intended to withstand long tramping nor to keep the feet dry. For the white man, however, either or all of these three types of moccasins will be found useful. The Algonquin is very neat, it is comfortable and is simple to make; the Sioux requires more time in making, but has the advantage of a thick sole to protect your feet, while the Seminole is made from a single piece of leather; it may be made without tools of any sort, other than a knife, and it is the simplest of all. An Indian can make a pair of Seminole moccasins in less than half an hour, but you will find a great deal of practice necessary before you can make a pair readily and quickly and yet secure a good fit.
  14. Re: Ctrl+V Dedee Pfeiffer
  15. Re: Ctrl+V http://www.huffingtonpost.com/2011/07/06/banning-military-footwear_n_891276.html
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