Miniatures and mapping

[Konji]

Hello Heroes!

 

What miniatures do you use in your campaign? How big is your hex map or do you use squared maps? I would appreciate your help and input into this matter.

 

Thanks

[Polaris]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

Hiya,

 

I use paper superhero miniatures I bought at RPGNow.

 

The map I use is a hex map (just a standard vinyl one I got at a game store) with one inch hexes.

 

Polaris

[proditor]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

Miniatures: Some lead and pewter collected from Heritage, Swords and Sorcery, Superfigs and Citadel. A Huge and still growing amount of custom made Heroclix. Size range is 25-32mm roughly.

 

Maps: Whatever works. I have hex, square and a giant presentation pad. I make a lot of 3D terrain so lines of sight and obstacles or items of opportunity are clear. All measuring done with a tape measure.

 

Why? Well, Minis first. I only use Lead and pewter if the figure is perfect more or less as is. If it needs a lot of conversion, I go for the plastic clix. They are a LOT easier to mod and I can get away with using an Exacto and my files and not have to break out the Dremel. Time is also a factor as in the time I can mod a single pewter mini, I can almost definitely make 3 Heroclix. They are also lighter and surprisingly, more durable in the most common mini mishap, the drop or launch. Because they are so light and the base is heavy, Heroclix tend not to break apart like an unpinned lead/pewter mini.

 

On to maps, I just use whatever looks like the scene. When we did a fight in a museum for example, I had a T-Rex Skeleton, curio cases and a sarcophigi (sp?) so that folks would know what was where and what they could use to beat on the bad guys. And when posed right, it kinda looks cool to have your mini about to hurl a dino skeleton at Mechassassin.

 

So that's my 2 cents, YMMV.

[Rapier]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

I use paper minis. For the longest time there were no good metal ones.

 

Steve Jackson Games has some pretty nice cardboard ones that I like a lot.

 

My hex map (which needs replacing :hums 'tis the season:) is a Chessex vinyl, one sided 1" hex map that is 36x48.

 

However, we game through IRC so I don't get to use it very often as a group. I do, sometimes, set up the map for my personal use (I have enough to keep track of without that too) while we game...and I use my mat and minis then.

[CrosshairCollie]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

I think my map is 36"x48". Hexes on one side, squares on the other for the d20 games. My minis are ... diverse. The cardboard triangles from the 4E GM's screen, the 'prism-shaped' Marvel minis from the Marvel Super Heroes Advanced Set, a few HeroClix, a few small Digimon figures, a couple of Lego constructs, a few Transformers (for those who like Giant Robots) ...

[sinanju]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

I don't use miniatures or hex maps. At best, I'll occasionally draw a quick and dirty map or set out some dice to clarify relative positions. I prefer keeping combat moving to precise mapping of moves and strategies, and not using maps really cuts down on the wargaming mentality. Distances can be summarized pretty much as "arm's reach," "spittin' distance," "across the room," "across the street," "down the street" and "far away." Players can ask about penalties if they need a number, or suggest actions that might give them bonuses, but exact distances are more trouble than they're worth most of the time (in my opinion).

[Edsel]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

My game room has a 5'x8' gaming table. We have a Chessex Mondomat which is a 4'x8' vinyl gaming mat. It has 1" hexes on one side and 1" squares on the other. We can write on it with vis-a-vis markers and then erase it with a wet paper towel when we are done.

 

I have a wide selection of miniatures, I'd guess about 600 or so. Over half are painted. I've got some from just about every major miniatures company in the last 20 years. I've even got some of the old Champions figures and some of the old Marvel miniatures done back in 1984.

 

I spend far too much money on my toys.

[Blue]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

Superfigs, by four color figures; HeroClix, modified to look like published and home made characters; Anything else I can get my hands on, including lots of futuristic minis by Ikon.

 

For maps, I use anything from 1" to 1.5". Since we're counting hexes for distance, the actual real life size of the hex doesn't matter so much; you just assume it's 1 game inch.

 

I draw out my maps on clear celophane (Purchased in rolls at any arts & crafts store that has floral supplies) in permanent marker. Then at the game I just roll it out over a standard Chessex hex mat, that way I don't have to draw it on the spot and switching settings takes seconds. And I have a whole portfolio of the ones I want to reuse because they don't take up much space.

 

I also make cardboard buildings from the ones purchaseable/downloadable from Microtactix.com. And there are some cool 3D plastic structures you assemble, made by Pegasus Hobbies, called "Platformer" and "Hexagoner".

[teh bunneh]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

Some helpful tips on finding superhero minis:

 

http://www.herogames.com/digitalHero/Samples/dh12miniatures.htm

 

Bill.

[proditor]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

Some helpful tips on finding superhero minis:

 

http://www.herogames.com/digitalHero/Samples/dh12miniatures.htm

 

Bill.

Bill, you really are just too darn modest. That has to be one of the best guides on "Where do I find a mini that looks like Chronomaster?" ever written. And, you wrote it, take some credit man!

[Susano]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

Chessex vinyl map and scards of cardboard heroes -- mostly from Steve Jackson Games.

 

I like maps as they end confusion and let me draw in all the debris of a battle.

[Koshka]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

Chessex megamat with 1" hexes.

 

For generic thugs/agents, I usually use glass nuggets -- one of my other hobbies is stained glass. (Sidetrack: buying them through a stained glass supplier is much cheaper than getting the official CCG "counters" at the game store.) For PCs, one of my friends likes to make shrinky-dink plastic figures. For major NPCs, it depends on what I've got. I have some of the Hero cardboard figures (I need to go through the hard drive and see if I'm up to date on them), but I've also used cardstock counters.

[Rapier]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

For PCs' date=' one of my friends likes to make shrinky-dink plastic figures. [/quote']

Do they still make those?

 

IIRC, there was, back in the day, some kind of recipe or something for how to make your own. If this is indeed the case, care to share?

 

I've got a friend that is a hella cool arteest and he could draw up some nifty little counters.

[Captain Obvious]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

Chessex megamat with 1" hexes.

 

For generic thugs/agents, I usually use glass nuggets -- one of my other hobbies is stained glass. (Sidetrack: buying them through a stained glass supplier is much cheaper than getting the official CCG "counters" at the game store.)

 

You can get little plastic or glass "beads" from the craft stores, or the craft section of WalMart, for about 99 cents for a bag of (guesstimated) 20-30. Also much cheaper than the official ones, and they look pretty much the same. I think pet stores sell something very like them as well, for decorating aquariums.

[Rapier]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

You can get little plastic or glass "beads" from the craft stores' date=' or the craft section of WalMart, for about 99 cents for a bag of (guesstimated) 20-30. Also much cheaper than the official ones, and they look pretty much the same. I think pet stores sell something very like them as well, for decorating aquariums.[/quote']

You can find them all over the place:

 

Pet Stores for Aquariums

Grocery Stores (or Flower Shops) for Vases

Games Stores (if you don't mind paying 10x what they are worth)

Home Improvement Stores (apparently you can use them as stand alone/decorative piles)

Hobby Shops (the ones that sell knitting supplies, doll parts, etc)

[BlackSword]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

Chessex vinyl map and scards of cardboard heroes -- mostly from Steve Jackson Games.

 

I like maps as they end confusion and let me draw in all the debris of a battle.

When someone falls and is down for the rest of the fight, we remove the mini. Unfortunataly for the GM another player and I typically draw stick figures using red and black markers to show how the body fell and what kind of carnage has been left in the wake.

 

To answer the question, we use a Chessex vinyl map. For minis mostly stock HeroClix. In addition some of my Citadel minis and I picked up a few of the Siver Age Sentinels minis. Currently the only one I have completed is Alice, Queen of Hearts. The mini looks so good though I told one player when it is my turn to run they are going to be running into tons of two-gun toting female adversaries.

[Spence]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

I use a large battlemat (hex) and a visavis marker to mark terrain.

 

For figures, I am a throwback to the early years. When I first played RPG's the pickings were extremely sparse. And if you couldn't use historicals, there were only a few lines, mostly fantasy. We used dice. Small sixes were extras, green civilian, blue police, black evil henchmen and so on. Polys were were the Heros or major villians. Since most of the game is roleplayed and we use the maps only for combat accuracy we actually never needed mini's except as a place marker. Besides the best mini never could hold a candle to the minds eye. I still use mini's for wargaming, but for RPG the only time I do is if I am playing with an established group that does, but the games always seem washed out and less colorful than what I see in my mind eye.

[proditor]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

When someone falls and is down for the rest of the fight, we remove the mini. Unfortunataly for the GM another player and I typically draw stick figures using red and black markers to show how the body fell and what kind of carnage has been left in the wake.

 

To answer the question, we use a Chessex vinyl map. For minis mostly stock HeroClix. In addition some of my Citadel minis and I picked up a few of the Siver Age Sentinels minis. Currently the only one I have completed is Alice, Queen of Hearts. The mini looks so good though I told one player when it is my turn to run they are going to be running into tons of two-gun toting female adversaries.

Heh...my group got really nervous when I made Eurostar for that exact same reason. I also had the following conversation with a player some time earlier.

 

Player: So, what'cha doin'?

Me: Just finishing a mod.

Player: Hey, is that Defender?

Me: Yup

Player: That's pretty cool, I like....aw crap....

Me: What?

Player: You only paint minis you intend to use sometime soon, therefore the Champions are going to be mind controlled by Menton and we're going to have to fight them. Crap, crap crap...

Me: Um...no, it's...I just wanted to make them.

Player (snorts): Yeah right. So why do you have a mini of a guy in a nice armani suit in your "too be painted" line, huh?

 

And with that, I was well and truly busted.

[Lord Mhoram]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

We use homemade cardboard heroes. We have the artist in the group sketch the character, I scan it, and shrink it, print it one upside down, one regular, print, cut out, and tape the bottom to a penny. Aside from my character meeb. He's an amoeba, so I just melted some green army men and then covered that with green candle wax.

 

For maps we use what amounts to dry erase board, with a yardstick for measuring (and the yardstick is marked off with the range penalties on it, so we can just put it down and not even count inches, just look at say "-4"). The smooth white waterproof paneling you use in bathrooms is basically the same as dry erase, and much cheaper. Years ago we got an 8'x3' slab for 15 bucks. (we had it cut to 3 pieces, which we put together if we need that big a map).

[Rapier]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

For maps we use what amounts to dry erase board' date=' with a yardstick for measuring (and the yardstick is marked off with the range penalties on it, so we can just put it down and not even count inches, just look at say "-4"). The smooth white waterproof paneling you use in bathrooms is basically the same as dry erase, and much cheaper. Years ago we got an 8'x3' slab for 15 bucks. (we had it cut to 3 pieces, which we put together if we need that big a map).[/quote']

I've got a little tape measure I bought at home depot. It was 99 cents. I used a scratch awl and a crayon (like we used to use on our dice to make the numbers stick out) to mark the range mods on it. It works just the same, but easier to put in your pocket (obligatory "is that a yard stick in your pocket or are you just happy to see me?").

 

Before the tape measure it was a piece of string with tape markers for range mods and black felt tip lines for range. The tape measure was a VAST improvement.

 

I've used the same kind of panelling before (but mine was white kitchen panelling...probably the same stuff), but never for RPing. Since there are no "hexes" per se, do you find it problematic since the character may not actually be (and most likely will not be) centered in a "hex?" You must frequently run into ranges that are 4 3/16". What do you do in those circumstances?

[Blue]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

Do they still make those?

 

IIRC, there was, back in the day, some kind of recipe or something for how to make your own. If this is indeed the case, care to share?

 

I've got a friend that is a hella cool arteest and he could draw up some nifty little counters.

Somewhere around here there's a thread on this very topic. Yup, you can order the blank sheets online. It's a neat idea, but I've never tried it.

[Koshka]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

Do they still make those?

 

Yep, I think he gets his plastic sheets at the craft store (we've got both Michaels and Hobby Lobby in town).

 

IIRC, there was, back in the day, some kind of recipe or something for how to make your own. If this is indeed the case, care to share?

 

He normally draws the characters in Hero Machine, copies them into a paint or photo program to adjust the size, and prints straight onto the plastic. I'd have to ask him what size he prints to get a shrunk 1 inch tall mini, but I think he can get 9 minis per sheet of plastic.

 

You can get little plastic or glass "beads" from the craft stores' date=' or the craft section of WalMart, for about 99 cents for a bag of (guesstimated) 20-30. Also much cheaper than the official ones, and they look pretty much the same.[/quote']

 

There's not as much color choice, but I've gotten those as well. I need to do some experimenting with acid etching the iridescent ones. Just in case anyone's interested, here's my usual source , but they only sell by the full pound. (I've been tempted to order several pounds and break them down into smaller packets to sell at cons .)

[Lord Mhoram]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

Since there are no "hexes" per se' date=' do you find it problematic since the character may not actually be (and most likely will not be) centered in a "hex?" You must frequently run into ranges that are 4 3/16". What do you do in those circumstances?[/quote']

 

We normally assume that each figure is that far apart. It has been over a decade since we have used hexmaps, we measure from fig to fig. Most times something a quarter inch is just ignored. If something is right on the line, we go for whatever is most dramatic - or the whole "round in the character's favor" rule.

[zornwil]

Re: Miniatures and mapping

 

Konji, I'm not sure if just listing what we do helps (let us know if we can help more specifically, or what issues you face), but for the record if it does, I use 2-D cardboard squares to represent players (Villains and Vigilantes or avatar style if you know what I mean by either), with drawings/photo-manips on them of the characters, and we play with those on hex maps. I find the 3-D paper ones a bit of a pain to deal with (storage and such) as well as I just plain like the 2-D square style, and I fully admit that's because I first saw the Villains and Vigilante counters and fell in love with them. I don't do miniatures mainly because it's a heck of a lot harder, for me anyway, to try to customize those to look like what I want. As to the hex grid, that's just easier/more accurate than squares (though, btw, I don't mind a good map with squares, I'll use that, too, it's not that important a distortion), and it fits the HERO rules easily. As to why maps at all, I like to really visualize where everyone is in relation to each other, and I think it helps the players, though I've certainly run combats without a map, but just the simpler/quicker ones, typically, like supers running up against a couple muggers or the like.

 

Recently, last session, I did a bit of a departure. I saw a neat-looking photo of the Flat-iron building, which was where the battle was to take place, and I just used that photo, representing the characters wherever they would be in the air around the building or on the sides of the building, given the way the combat would occur. I didn't hex-grid anything (because of the fact it was a photo with stuff larger in the foreground and all that it wouldn't have made sense) and just moved characters according to the dimensions/area and their relative movement. It seemed to work okay, for this purpose, though it ended up a bit more fudgey than I really liked in the end, in SOME aspects. But I will probably reuse this method on rare occassion.